date: 6/16/10
location: st. paul
grade: b

the only disappointment we had here was the mysterious lack of the soup dumplings. this was the only one of the tea houses that had them, per everything we read. that's why we went to this particular location (well, that and a lack of representing by st. paul in our overall list for the year).

when we asked about them, we were told they didn't exist. admittedly most of the posted info was a few years old, not a lot of recent reviews with details such as that.

we weren't able to tell if they had none at all, were out, or what. the server was kind of mumbly. (yes, i realize how ironic that is.) i read something that hinted that they may just be served at weekend brunch... or maybe that's only at the new location by the u. *

instead, someone ordered the mini juicy pork buns ($6.50 for 6). no, they didn't entirely make up for the lack of soup dumplings (indeed, a large part of the reason that they wanted to come here), but they were very good, i was told.

the dan dan noodles weren't as good as the ones at grand szechuan, the dish lacked much of the complexity that was in the other sauce of that sauce, for one, and i think the ingredients as a whole were better and brighter in the other version. i think the noodles were different, more toothsome.

the szechuan cold noodles ($4.50) however completely rocked. yes, the cold peanut noodles were my favorite dish there. and that sauce had was dan dan noodles lacked- it was just hot enough (maybe a low medium heat- had they condiments on the table i would've added a tiny bit more) and complex enough, which is odd to say about a peanut sauce, but it was true. the dish is very craveable indeed. i'd go back to get those again (well, maybe to one of the tea houses that's closer to my house). keep some in the fridge, even. i wonder how well they freeze. i love these, perhaps somewhat irrationally.

the kung pao chicken ($10.95) was the least generic version of that dish i've ever had that i can recall (though admittedly i usually get it from buffets). real chicken, no cornstarchy weird sauce, with fresh peanuts. but there's only so much excitement it provides. the tea smoked duck (quack) ($12.95) was also not quite as good as the gs verion, but one of the better versions i've had and it was better than the chicken

all in all, i'd say order off the chef's selections (they were in another menu area than the usual chicken, seafood, etc. sections) for sure and any authentic szechuan dishes in the app or soup or other bits of the menu versus the stuff you can find anywhere. the duck was off that menu, the chicken wasn't. (yes, one of the rare occasions that i had the better dinner.)

other than mumbling, our server was good and somewhat amusing. water service was fine. the decor was subtle and tasteful (though the restroom was oddly generic) and it very much felt like you were not in strip mall (even though you really are). apparently the university avenue one is supposed to be more of a showplace, even.

* = or in a bit of wtf, those were the soup dumplings... see the tea house, u of m review.