date: 4/20/04
location: st. paul
grade: a+

'in this heartland....' the u2 song gets in my head everytime i think about this place.

a good song, a great restaurant. i can't think of a single aspect of the place that needs improvement and they so have the details down. the space is a intimate, 40-odd person space with a few nooks divided from the line by a partial wall, so you can see people bustling about making your food and the design also allows the whole place to smell delicious. i can't recall a time where i inhaled the scent at a restaurant so much. the place is done in clean, simple lines and unjarring tones, which go well with the table settings. place settings are changed discretely after each course, water and bread service is timely and unobtrusive (mine were sourdough rolls with pumpkin seeds and rye, served with just the right size pots of butter that is of spreadable consistancy, they also had french wheat). the music is also great- it's distinctive yet works well in the background. even the bathroom has real towels for your hand drying (after washing with aveda rosemary-mint handwash).

the chef stops by the tables to chat about the food and see if anyone has any questions about it. we inquired about the cassoulet that was ordered, and learned how it was made and where some of the ingredients came from. all the food is organic and in season, and as close to local as possible. the chef has a great memory, as he recalled a friend of mine who had dined at his place months before he saw her again, and remembered what she ordered.

the wine list is extensive, has a wide range of prices, and features minnesota wines. they don't have wines by the glass, but they do have half-bottles. they also have a good beer, tea, and coffee list. what else would you expect at this point.

their menu is divided into two prix fixe dinners, a fauna (meat eaters) for around $35 and a flora (vegetarian) for $25, both of which come with an amuse bouche, appetizer, main course, cheese course, and dessert. which is a great deal for the price. there are also apps, salads, main courses, side dishes, and desserts you can order a la carte. i had fauna, which was:

• beef tongue with tomato nut relish (i skipped the tongue).
• pan seared au bon canard minnesota duck foie gras with roasted anjou pears and apple cider sherry glace de viande
• pan roasted wisconsin rabbit with crimini mushrooms, roasted shallots, and preserved door county blueberries glace de viande
• blue cheese with homemade spicy honey crackers
• bittersweet chocolate-cornmeal cake with candied kansas pecans, mint-scented strawberries, vanilla creme anglais and warm chocolate sauce.

also sampled: midwestern cassoulet, barley risotto with oyster mushrooms, grape tomatoes, wisconsim parmesan, and green onions, apple cake with blackberry coulis, lavendar shortbread, and apple peel crisps. (did i mention they post their menu online every day they are open? a new menu. daily. with a price listing. impressive, especially with some places not posting theirs ever or leaving the cost off.)

it was the best food i had since... well, solera.

so yeah, they are moving to minneapolis. and getting a bigger space. so get here soon, probably before the end of may 2004, if you want this kind of vibe. i'd bet everything will be on the same par at the new place, but it'll be the same thing... only different.